Still summer in Chicago
I had just 48 hours in Chicago and I wanted to make the most of it.
I picked up my rental car and went straight from O’Hare International (a smooth 90 minute flight from Newark) to Rick Bayless‘ upscale Mexican restaurant, Topolobampo (which is located just a flight of stairs away from Bayless’ flagship restaurant, Frontera Grill).
Topolobampo has been on my places-to-eat list for a long time so I was pretty excited. It was arguably the first fancy Mexican restaurant in the U.S., and it was the first “ethnic” restaurant to receive 4 stars from Chicago Magazine. There were some highlights but as a whole I was underwhelmed. I started with a tasty Sopa Azteca — a rich chicken soup in a pasilla chile broth with avocado, jack cheese, crisp tortilla strips, and lime….followed by the standard chips and guacamole, which was fine but not special in any way. The main course was very disappointing; Pork Shoulder and Belly, with a puree of white corn, black beans, and avocado, and sweet corn “air” ($17 lunch). Even disregarding the “air,” or tasteless foam on my plate, it was pretentious, and completely lacking in flavor. Not at all what I expected from one of the Kings of Mexican cuisine. But as I said this meal did have some highlights…I’m not much of a drinker, but Topolobampo is known for their Margaritas, so I had my very first Margarita ever in life (pretty good…but don’t think I need another one anytime soon) and dessert was awesome…I had the Budin de Elote ($10) which was a cornbread pudding with coconut-corn salsa, coconut ice cream, and coconut crumble. It was a perfect seasonal dessert that I will definitely recreate at home.
I needed to walk off my lunch so I explored the Loop (the downtown area) and the Navy Yard, which is like the South Street Seaport of Chicago for us New Yorkers. I met up with my husband and headed out for more exploring. One of the best parts of our trip came next, the Architectural Boat Ride down the river. Chicago is, after all, the home of the first skyscraper as well as the tallest building in the country, the Willis Tower (formerly known as the Sears Tower). The boat ride was a great way to see a lot of the city in a short time, while our tour guide, Hillary, taught us all about neo-classical design and the Chicago Seven.
After all this architectural fun, it was time to eat again. Of course you can’t visit Chicago and not eat steak. From the Civil War until the late 1920’s, Chicago was the meat-packing capital of the nation. Now the meat industry is long gone, but there is still a great steakhouse on every corner. We only had time for one.
After much research and debate, we chose the Chicago Chop House. Located in a beautiful Victorian brownstone in the River North neighborhood, it is definitely a Chicago institution. The classic steakhouse menu did not disappoint. We did pretty good damage to a couple of Cajun-rubbed porterhouse, sautéed spinach, and potatoes au gratin with bacon and cheddar (yes, we crossed the line with that one but I don’t regret it). We had some plans for after dinner, but cow-coma took over and we had to call it a night.
The next day it was time for more exploring and some fun in the sun. We took a walk down the Magnificent Mile to Millennium Park. Took some touristy pictures at the cool reflect-y thing (also known as The Cloud Gate or The Bean) and got to see a good portion of the Downtown area. I was impressed by how clean and well cared for all the public spaces are.
I really wanted to get the full Chicago experience, so with the scene from The Fugitive stuck in my head, we took the green line L (the elevated train) back towards the hotel. The subway was clean and well designed. The whole city feels very comfortable to me…The streets are wide, the seats on the L are cushioned, people are so friendly, it all makes you feel very welcomed.
Even before I got to the beach, I was falling in love with Chicago. But this was too much. I couldn’t believe it, right in the middle of the bustling city and the sky scrapers, all you have to do is cross the street and you’re on the beach. I had just blown out my hair so obviously I wasn’t going all the way in the water, but waist deep I stood there and looked around…I don’t think I could have been any happier. There are miles and miles of Lake Michigan shoreline and 33 clean, swimmable beaches in Chicago. Hanging out there in the water, I kept thinking about the duality of this great city…beach life and urban life, amazing summers and harsh winters, wealth and poverty, White Sox and Cubbies. I don’t think you would be bored for a second if you lived here.
We drove to the Chatham/Avalon Park section of the South Side of Chicago for a soul food lunch at Army and Lou’s. It turned out to be our only meal that day. That’s how much we ate. Army and Lou’s, established in 1945, is one of the oldest Black-owned restaurants in the Midwest. It really became popular in the 1980s because it was Harold Washington’s favorite restaurant, Chicago’s first Black Mayor. We were starving by the time we got there, and it took a while to get our food, so we may have over-ordered a little bit. We got a massive amount of Fried Chicken, along with macaroni and cheese, candied yams, and cornbread stuffing. All for about $20. I was snacking on fried chicken all night long in the hotel room…along with the homemade peach cobbler we took to-go for dessert. It was well-done classic soul food. Well seasoned and prepared with caring hands. Our waitress made everyone who entered feel right at home. When we handed her the check she said to us, “Thank You. I love you guys.” You can’t get any better than that. I will definitely be going back to Army and Lou’s next time I’m in Chicago.
The next day I woke up a little bit sad to be leaving this great city. We had time for one final meal so we decided on Dim Sum at Shanghai Terrace. We ate outside in their beautiful terrace garden, surrounded by the urban architecture of the Second Chicago School, which we learned so much about on our boat ride the day before. The food was creative and beautifully presented. This may have been our best meal all weekend. Pearl Chicken in lotus leaves, BBQ Pork Buns with vinegar dipping sauce, Spicy Beef Gyoza made with a delicate wrapper and lots of fresh scallions minced into the meat, Steamed Vegetable Dumplings which were so flavorful, with tons of fresh veggies, scallions, and ginger, served with a hoisin dipping sauce, Shrimp Spring Rolls, and Fried Crab Wontons filled with a fresh, creamy crab filling and a sweet chili sauce (all $6 for about 4 pieces each).
Despite not running into Oprah anywhere, it was a dynamite trip and an amazing city. I’ll be back in the Winter to see what all the complaining is about.
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You didn’t make it to what is (arguably) Chicago’s best restaurant, Hot Doug’s??? You must try the foie gras dog with the duck fat fries.
I haven’t been to El Topowhatchamacallit, but I have been to Frontera Grill, and it pretty much put me off Mr. Bayless. He seems like such a mild guy on television; sadly, the food there seemed a bit too mild for me.
I will definitely be going back to Chicago so I will add it to my list!! :)
Completely agreed on Bayless!
Glad you liked “my” city! But “Navy Yard”? Could you be referring to Navy Pier?
Yes! You’re right- Navy Pier – I think I Brooklyn-ified your city, confusing our Navy Yard with your Navy Pier! (Yours wins, by the way :)
My apologies!
BTW, next time you come to Chicago, be sure to go to Hon Kee in Viet Town. It’s a hole in the wall, but it has the best duck and salt-and-pepper shrimp you’ll ever eat.
It has been added to my list! Thanks!!