On March 15, I celebrated yet another birthday. Since food is such a huge part of my life, where to have dinner on my birthday is usually a wrenching decision for me……but not this year. The Good Fork, in Red Hook, Brooklyn, has consistently been my favorite restaurant all year (a position previously held by Union Square Cafe, a formidable contender.) I’ve been to The Good Fork five times this year, and each time has been exceptional.

The Good Fork opened in March of 2006 to rave reviews. Chef Sohui Kim (formerly of Annisa, another great restaurant, especially if money is no object) serves American home cooking with a Korean influence, while husband Ben Schneider warmly manages front of the house. The food is simple and serene. There is nothing unrecognizable…no foams or garnishes that defy the laws of physics. Instead you will find simple flavors like Roast Chicken with braised leeks, Braised Pork Shoulder with swiss chard, and Crab Cakes with mashed potatoes.

Regardless of what else you order, you MUST start with the pork dumplings (they were even good enough to win a Throwdown! with Bobby Flay). They are seriously a superior dumpling. Refined and perfectly seasoned with fresh garlic, ginger, and chives in a light, crisp wrapper.

The Good Fork has a nice wine list, but I highly recommend the signature Red Hook Cooler or the Blood Orange Margarita, both made with fresh, seasonal ingredients.

I definitely have my favorites in the entree department, but don’t go there with your mind made up because the specials are actually special here. One of the best meals of my life was my first meal at The Good Fork when I had a homemade gnocchi special with roasted cauliflower that was so insanely good I still think about it from time to time, one year later. The gnocchi were so light they were practically floating above the plate. My dream is that one day that special will repeat itself.

The Roast Chicken with mashed parsnip-potatoes and braised leeks on a light black bean sauce is my current infatuation. The Chicken is from Hoosic River Farm in upstate, NY, and most of the veggies were grown right there in Red Hook. There is always a roast chicken dish on the Good Fork menu, but the sides and sauces change frequently. It’s always delicious, with perfectly roasted, flavorful chicken.

The only thing at The Good Fork that is hit or miss is dessert. Generally, I do not order dessert there anymore because it’s just not on the same exceptional level as the rest of the meal.

The Good Fork is open for dinner every night except Monday. Dinner for two, without alcohol, is about $65.

 

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